Setting Out
It was my first morning in Fargo, North Dakota, and the crisp prairie air filled my lungs as I tightened the straps on my panniers. I had planned this trip for months, eager to explore the wide-open plains, rolling hills, and historic landmarks of this underappreciated state. My bike, an old but reliable touring model, felt like an extension of myself as I set off along the quiet roads that stretched endlessly into the horizon.
The Sheyenne River Valley
My journey began with the Sheyenne River Valley Scenic Byway. The winding path followed the curves of the river, and the golden hues of the prairie grasslands were a stark contrast to the vibrant blue of the sky. Every turn revealed a new perspective: a quaint farmstead, a grazing herd of cattle, or a hawk soaring overhead. I stopped in Valley City for a quick lunch and a chance to admire the historic Highline Bridge, an engineering marvel from the early 20th century.
Theodore Roosevelt National Park
After a few days of steady pedaling, I arrived at the gateway to Theodore Roosevelt National Park. The rugged badlands stretched out before me, their layered rock formations glowing in the warm light of the setting sun. Camping here was a highlight of the trip. I spent the evening listening to the howl of distant coyotes and gazing up at a sky so full of stars it felt like I could touch them.
The next morning, I tackled the park’s scenic loop road. The climb was tough, but the sweeping views made every drop of sweat worth it. Bison grazed along the roadside, seemingly indifferent to my presence, and prairie dogs chirped warnings to their colony as I cycled past. It was a humbling experience to feel so small in such a vast, untamed landscape.
Following the Missouri River
Leaving the badlands behind, I followed the Missouri River southward. This portion of the journey was both challenging and rewarding. The winds along the river corridor could be fierce, but the sight of the water shimmering in the sunlight was a constant motivator. I stopped in Bismarck for a rest day, exploring the North Dakota Heritage Center and its exhibits on the state’s rich history and indigenous cultures.
Medora and the Maah Daah Hey Trail
My final leg brought me to Medora, a charming town nestled at the edge of the badlands. From here, I ventured onto the Maah Daah Hey Trail, a singletrack route renowned among mountain bikers. The trail was challenging, with steep climbs and technical descents, but the sense of isolation and the beauty of the untouched wilderness made it unforgettable. I paused often to take in the panoramic views, the painted canyons, and the occasional herd of wild horses.
Reflections on the Journey
As I rolled back into Fargo nearly two weeks after setting out, I felt a profound sense of accomplishment. North Dakota had surprised me at every turn with its natural beauty, friendly people, and quiet roads perfect for cycling. It’s a place that feels both vast and intimate, a landscape that reminds you of your small place in the world while offering endless possibilities for adventure.