Introduction
Someone once said, “It’s not the things in life you do that you come to regret but the things you don't do.” So when the opportunity to visit Africa, and in particular East Africa by bicycle, came along, I jumped on board. It was an Escape Adventures trip organised by John Etherington, a New Zealand dude with a wicked sense of humour. The trip cruises through Kenya from Nairobi, taking back roads and trails into Tanzania, and ends in Dar es Salaam. Apart from reading the ramblings in the Economist and watching the odd wildlife skit, I was blissfully ignorant of Africa, but was sure it would be an adventure.
Setting Out
We had a backup vehicle named Turtle to carry the camping kit and food. Turtle and its trailer are probably the closest a vehicle has ever got to Swiss army knife status with its fold-out kitchen, slide-out pantry, pop-up roof tent, and hidden attachments too numerous to name. John was a motor mechanic in a past life, a useful trade for these remote trips. His sidekick Mandy was in charge of food and rode her trusty creaking Specialized FSR mountain bike. Tail end Charlie, Nash, a local Kenyan, did the driving, interpreting, and a bit of everything else. Lucy Ireland, a London lass, Lynda Pedley and Glenn MacCrimmon, a Canadian couple who have cycled most of the globe, and myself made up the A team.
Highlights of Kenya
We left Nairobi taking the back roads through gently rolling country to Amboseli National Park and our first breathtaking view of Mount Kilimanjaro, its snow top just poking out of the clouds. The road surface was hard-packed red dirt, but we made the most of the local bike trails running parallel or shortcutting the route. Giraffes, zebras, and gazelles cruised across our path heading through the acacia forest and Masai villages we encountered along the way. The local kids came running out of these villages to cheer us on, as if we were in a race.
Crossing into Tanzania
We rolled across the border the next day and into Tanzania, a painless 30 minutes of officialdom where US dollars were extracted. A bit less English spoken was the only indicator that we had moved into another country. We encountered Masai youth with black and white facial paint herding their stock as we rode to the small town of Mto Wa Mbu at the base of the Rift Valley Escarpment. Massive trees of nesting cranes lined the road into town. We headed to the market to soak up the colour and do some bartering where John picked up some new recycled tyre tread sandals after managing to trade his old ones in.
The Ngorongoro Crater
Before dawn we were off on safari to the Ngorongoro Crater climbing up through shiny green rainforest caught in fluffy white cloud. The descent into the crater is steep and rough and as we emerged out of the mist into what would have been a lost world many centuries ago. To our west, a soda lake of pink flamingos with herds of zebras and wildebeests making an early morning trek across the crater. We spotted hippos going from mud hole to mud hole watched by a group of hyenas. Time seemed to compress as a female cheetah stalked a Thomson's gazelle...
Bagamoyo and Beyond
A series of dirt back roads took us through sleepy coconut-treed villages on our way to the historic town of Bagamoyo. An on-shore wind strengthened as we neared the coast but also kept us cool as we ploughed our way through the growing puddles of thick sand. Bagamoyo was once a major slave and trading route for East Africa sitting strategically on the Indian Ocean. Our shady beach camp retreat of white sand on this tropical coast greeted us.
The Myths of African Travel
The myths of African travel abound; most are unfounded, and like visiting any country of the world, becoming informed and going prepared is the best strategy. The large animals are awe-inspiring and rarely dangerous, if you use common sense. The local food is organic, fresh, and much healthier than in many western countries. The water isn't contaminated by agricultural chemicals and pesticides and can easily be filtered or treated against bugs. Biting insects are localised and seasonal and thus can be avoided.
The Details
The ride: Organised by John Etherington of Escape Adventures.
The flights: Emirates Airline has the best and most direct route from Australia/New Zealand (Downunder) and most of Europe, with modern planes and excellent service, especially when handling bicycles.
Accommodation/Side Trips: John can organise your airport pickup and accommodation in Nairobi, upgrades along the way when available, and post-ride trips to climb mountains, visit Zanzibar Island, or whatever takes your fancy.